Outside Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection

by | Jun 2, 2021 | CDL How To's

Outside Class A Pre-Trip Inspection

The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) requires pre-trip inspections before each haul. The driver must be satisfied that all parts are in good working order. If they’re not, the vehicle must be repaired before anyone can drive it. Pre-trip inspections keep people safe. Trucks are massive vehicles, and a minor issue on a truck is not like a minor issue on a car. Consider how a flat tire on a truck can cause a multi-car pileup, or how an item flying out of the back of a trailer could be fatal to motorists.

For those looking to obtain a commercial drivers license, a requirement of testing involves being able to perform a pre-trip inspection. The video above details how to perform one visually. Below you will see a more detailed write up on how to perform a basic outside pre-trip inspection.

Outside Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection- FRONT OF VEHICLE:

  • First we want to start at the front of the vehicle when performing a pre-trip inspection. We want to check that all Lights, like our Headlights with High & Low Beams, Turn signals on Left and Right side, clearance Lights, Flashers, and all reflectors on the front of the vehicle are clean, not Missing or broken & are correct the Color. Red is on rear, amber is elsewhere.
  • While here it is a good idea to check under the vehicle to make sure there are no leaks on the ground.
  • Next we are going to open the hood and go to the Passenger side of the engine compartment.

Passenger Side Engine Compartment: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • The first thing we do is a general overview of the area. We want to check the condition of all the hoses. Make sure they are not showing signs of damage and are not leaking. Then we need to look for puddles or drips on the ground to verify no leaks. Take a quick scan to verify nothing else at first glance looks like an issue.
  • Now what we will do is start from the right to the left working down through the parts we can see.
  • On this vehicle we can see one side of the radiator. The radiator transfers the heat from the fluid inside to the air outside, thereby cooling the fluid, which in turn cools the engine. We need to check the radiator is mounted securely and that the radiator and its hoses are not damaged, or leaking.
  • Next is the Alternator. When the engine is running, the alternator charges the battery and gives power to additional electrical systems. We check that the Alternator is securely mounted, & that all wires are secured, fastened, & have no damage. I then Identify if it is belt or gear driven. This one is belt driven so we need to check that the belt is snug, not frayed, cracked, have loose fibers, or signs of wear. It should not have Defects, and no more than 3/4” in play in the belt.*If it is gear driven, YOU MUST SAY operating properly, not damaged, not Leaking & mounted securely.
  • Moving onto the Exhaust, we must check the exhaust all the way from the manifold to the end. Since we can only see the beginning of it, we will inspect this portion now and as we go cover the rest. For the exhaust we check that it’s connected tightly & mounted securely – with no loose clamps. Then check for damage & signs of leakage, like rust or carbon soot.
  • Lastly, we can check the Windshield washer fluid reservoir while here. It’s not a requirement for testing but it’s needed in the real world. Just check that it’s mounted securely, not leaking , and at proper level.

Driver Side Engine Compartment: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • Just like before, we do a general overview of the area. We want to check the condition of all the hoses. Make sure they are not showing signs of damage and are not leaking. Then we need to look for puddles or drips on the ground to verify no leaks. Take a quick scan to verify nothing else at first glance looks like an issue.
  • We can now see the other side of the radiator. Check the radiator is mounted securely and that the radiator and its hoses are not damaged, or leaking just like the other side.
  • While we are here we need to check the coolant reservoir. We check that it is mounted securely, has no leaks, and is in safe operating level. On this unit it needs to be between the Min and Max mark.
  • Next is the Water Pump. It is the water pump’s job to regulate the coolant flow from the radiator to keep the engine from getting too hot. We check that the water pump is mounted properly, not loose, and not leaking. I then Identify if it is belt or gear driven. If it is belt driven we need to check that the belt is snug, not frayed, cracked, have loose fibers, or signs of wear. It should not have Defects, and no more than 3/4” in play in the belt. If it is gear driven, YOU MUST SAY operating properly, not damaged, not Leaking & mounted securely.
  • Moving on we have the Power Steering Reservoir, and the Power Steering Pump. Power steering system helps drivers steer the vehicle by reducing steering effort needed to turn the steering wheel by means of fluid.
  • First we check the Reservoir that it is mounted properly and secure, has no leaks, and is at the proper level. Make sure the cap is on and tight.
  • Then we check that the Pump is also mounted properly, secure, and has no leaks. Identify if it is belt or gear driven. If it is belt driven we need to check that the belt is snug, not frayed, cracked, have loose fibers, or signs of wear. It should not have Defects, and no more than 3/4” in playin the belt. If it is gear driven, YOU MUST SAY operating properly, not damaged, not Leaking & mounted securely.
  • The Air Compressor is far back on the engine. It builds up and maintains air pressure required to operate the air brakes and air-powered accessories. We need to check that it is mounted properly, secure, and has no audible leaks. Identify if it is belt or gear driven. If it is belt driven we need to check that the belt is snug, not frayed, cracked, have loose fibers, or signs of wear. It should not have Defects, and no more than 3/4” in playin the belt. If it is gear driven, YOU MUST SAY operating properly, not damaged, not Leaking & mounted securely.
  • A major possible breakdown is low oil. Oil is used to lubricate and cool down the engine as well. We need to make sure the engine has enough. First we pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, stick it back in, then pull it out and make sure it is at a safe operating level.
  • We need to next check the Steering gear box & its hoses. The steering gearbox contains the gears that transmit the driver’s steering inputs to the steering linkage that turns the wheels. We check that it is Securely mounted & not leaking, there is No missing nuts or bolts, and check power steering fluid leaks or damage to power steering hoses.
  • Lets move onto the suspension. The Suspension is the system of tires, tire air, springs, shock absorbers and linkages that connects a vehicle to its wheels and allows relative motion between the two. It is important for the suspension to keep the road wheel in contact with the road surface as much as possible. The suspension also protects the vehicle itself and any cargo or luggage from damage and wear.
  • First we check the Steering Linkage. We need to identify the Pitman arm, Drag link, Steering arm and knuckle. We check that they connect from the gearbox to the wheel, are not worn or cracked, joints &sockets are not worn or loose, and there are no missing nuts, bolts, or cotter pins.
  • From here is the Tie Rod, and we just need to make sure that it is mounted properly, secure, and not damaged or bent.
  • Next is the Leaf Spring and the Leaf spring mounts. Leaf springs provide support for the vehicle, and create a smoother ride by absorbing any bumps or potholes in the road. Here we check that there are no missing, shifted, broken, or cracked leaf springs. The mounts are properly mounted, secured, and show no signs of damage. While here we also check the U-bolts and bump stop, by inspecting them forbroken, missing or loose Bolts, and being properly mounted and secure.
  • Another part of the suspension is the shocks. We inspect those by making sure they are properly mounted, secure, and not showing any fluid leaks. Also we check the mounts on the shocks for missing or damaged bushings as well as being properly mounted and secure.
  • Most trucks do not have front airbags, but if they do, then just inspect them the same way as the leaf spring and shocks.
  • Moving on to the brake system we have the Brake Hoses or Lines. We check the hoses or lines that can supply air or hydraulic fluid to brakes. We do this by making sure there are no frayed, cracked, or worn hoses. All couplings are secured & not leaking. If electric brakes, verify electric lines are not worn or cracked.
  • Next is the Brake Chamber. For more information on how the air brake system works check out our video on air brakes. We inspect the brake chamber for any cracks, dents, that it is mounted securely, and there are no audible air leaks. Also check there is no loose or missing clamps.
  • Behind the brake chamber is the Slack Adjuster & Push Rod. Check that it is mounted securely, is not bent, broken, loose or missing any parts. If brakes are released and the slack adjuster is pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than 1”.
  • From there is the Drum & Linings or Rotors & Pad. We need to check the drums or rotors for cracks, dents or holes, and for any missing bolts. Then check the Brake linings or disk pads are not worn dangerously thin. Finally we check brake drums & linings for contaminants like grease and oil.
  • Onto the wheel, we start with the rim. We check both the inside and outside of the rim for any damages. Make sure it is not bent, has no welding repairs, and no rust trails that would indicate the rim is loose on the wheel.
  • Next is the tire. We check the condition of both sidewalls and tread is evenly worn, no cuts or damage to tread or sidewall, no illegal patches, and valve caps & stems are not missing or damaged. Tread depth no less than 4/32 on the front tires, and proper inflation by checking with an air gauge.
  • While here we check the Lug Nuts. How we inspect these is to make sure they are all present, not loose (and signs of this is rust around lug nuts), and no cracks from lug nuts or distortion of bolt holes.
  • Finally we check the Hub Oil or Axle Seal. We need to verify it is not leaking.*If sight glass is present, Indicate that the oil level is adequate. If it is sealed just verify there are no leaks.

Now let’s move to the side of the truck: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • First we will do a general look at the side for any visible damages, then move to all the Lights and Reflectors. We check that none are missing or broken, & proper color. This one is amber and is correct.
  • Next is the Door and Mirror. We check first that the Door is not damaged, it opens & closes properly, hinges should be secure w/seals intact, and check door window for damage. Now we check Mirrors for proper adjustment, that all internal & external mirror brackets are securely mounted, not damaged, & free of excessive dirt.
  • While here we check that the steps are properly mounted and secure, not cracked or damaged, and are free from loose objects.
  • From there we move down to the Fuel Tank. We check the Fuel Tank is secure, fuel Cap is on tight, safety chain is present, rubber gasket is present and in good condition, and there are no leaks from the fuel tank & cap.
  • If the vehicle is equipped with cargo doors, then check that it is not damaged, opens and closes, and latches properly.

Moving on to the back of the Vehicle.

  • Check the lights and reflectors are clean, none are missing or broken, & proper color. red/rear, amber/front.
  • Going down we go to the Catwalk & Steps. From here we check that the catwalk & steps is securely bolted to the tractor frame, is solid, & clear of loose objects. Storage area is sec. to tongue & that cargo in the storage area is secure.
  • Now we move down and check the Frame. Here we check for bends in both frame members, loose, cracked, bent or missing cross members.
  • In between the frame is the driveshaft. The Driveshaft delivers power from the engine transmission to the other end of the vehicle before it goes to the wheels. We need to make sure it is not bent, twisted or cracked. The u-joints appear to be secure & free of foreign objects.
  • Next we need to finish examining the Exhaust system. We already inspected from the manifold so now we need to check to the top of the exhaust stack/tip. We check that it is connected tightly, mounted securely, has no loose clamps, and no signs of damage or leakage like rust or carbon soot. The Exhaust system should not have any cracks, holes or severe dents.
  • IF the vehicle is equipped with a DEF system, then Check that the DEF Tank is not cracked or damaged, mounted securely, has no leaks, and that the level of fluid is adequate. You will need more than1/8th of fluid in the tank. To check that use the indicator on the dash inside of the truck.

We are now going to inspect the rear of the Vehicle: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • We are going to start with the Springs, Airbags, & Shocks. Check for missing, shifted, broken, and cracked leaf springs. Then check for broken or distorted coil springs. Next we check the air ride suspension for damage & leaks by checking the shock absorbers and air bags are secure, not damaged, & are not leaking. Then check the Torque Arm/Spring/shock/ & Air bag Mounts are in place in place, no cracked or Broken hangers, no missing or damaged bushings, the air bag mounts/bolts are in place and not Missing. Lastly check the U-Bolts for broken, missing/loose Bolts.
  • If vehicle is otherwise equipped with Torsion Bars, torque arms, etc. Verify not damaged and are mounted securely.
  • Moving on to the brake system we have the Brake Hoses or Lines. We check the hoses or lines that can supply air or hydraulic fluid to brakes. We do this by making sure there are no frayed, cracked, or worn hoses. All couplings are secured & not leaking. If electric brakes, verify electric lines are not worn or cracked.
  • Next is the Brake Chamber. For more information on how the air brake system works check out our video on air brakes. We inspect the brake chamber for any cracks, dents, that it is mounted securely, and there are no audible air leaks. Also check there is no loose or missing clamps.
  • Behind the brake chamber is the Slack Adjuster & Push Rod. Check that it is mounted securely, is not bent, broken, loose or missing any parts. If brakes are released and the slack adjuster is pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than 1”.
  • From there is the Drum & Linings or Rotors & Pad. We need to check the drums or rotors for cracks, dents or holes, and for any missing bolts. Then check the Brake linings or disk pads are not worn dangerously thin. Finally we check brake drums & linings for contaminants like grease and oil.
  • Onto the wheel, we start with the rim. We check both the inside and outside of the rim for any damages. Make sure it is not bent, has no welding repairs, and no rust trails that would indicate the rim is loose on the wheel.
  • Next is the tire. We check the condition of all sidewalls and tread is evenly worn, no cuts or damage to tread or sidewall, no illegal patches, and valve caps & stem are not missing or damaged. Tread depth no less than 2/32 on the rear tires, and proper inflation by checking with an air gauge. Make sure to point to all sidewalls and all tops of tread. Make sure to check that there is proper space between the 2tires. No debris stuck between them, the rims bud up together with ZERO space.
  • While here we check the Lug Nuts. How we inspect these is to make sure they are all present, not loose (and signs of this is rust around lug nuts), and no cracks from lug nuts or distortion of bolt holes.
  • Finally we check the Hub Oil or Axle Seal. We need to verify it is not leaking.*If sight glass is present, Indicate that the oil level is adequate. If it is sealed just verify there are no leaks. If there is more than one axel, then we will say we inspect that axel the same way we inspected this axel.
  • Behind the rear axle we check the Splash Guards are not damaged & mounted securely. Next we check the lights and reflectors are clean, none are missing or broken, & proper color. red/rear, amber/front.

Now we move onto the coupling system which couples the truck and trailer together.

  • We check that the air & Electrical lines are connected to the truck and trailer properly. Air line/glad hands: No bulges or cuts in air lines, rubber grommets not damaged on glad hands. Electric line and hook up: No broken pins, cover intact, No cuts in the line . Additionally inspect for damage and leaks.
  • Then check the Side skirt & Apron is not damaged, bent, and securely mounted. There is no gap between the apron and the skid plate. The Skid Plate is properly mounted to the platform & all bolts & pins are secure & not missing, and is properly greased.
  • Check Platform Base for cracks or breaks in structure, it’s securely mounted to frame or assembly. The Sliding or Fixed 5th wheel track is properly mounted and secure, not missing any mounting bolts, bolts are not loose, slider pin is in the Locked position, If equip w/safety latch make sure release arm engaged & safety latch is in place, If air powered check for leaks, and the 5th wheel is positioned properly so the tractor will clear the landing gear during turns.
  • Next check that the Kingpin is properly mounted and secure, not damaged or bent, and that the Locking Jaws are in the locked position and completely around the king pin.

Now we move onto the trailer. We start at the front: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • First we start with the Clearance Lights are in proper working order, proper color amber, not broken and secured. Reflectors are prop. color, mounted and not broken.
  • Then we check whether the Header Board or Bulk Head is secure, free of damage, and strong enough to contain cargo. Canvas or tarp carriers must be mounted & fastened securely. Enclosed trailers
    check the front area for signs of damage like bulges, holes, or missing rivets.

Now we move onto the side of the trailer.

  • First we start with all the Lights & Reflectors. We check that reflector tape on the side of the trailer Is present & affixed securely, clearance and turn signal lights are clean, not broken, & amber in color,
    reflectors are not broken & are proper color. Finally check the abs light is present if equipped, securely mounted, free of damage, and I will check that it works when performing my in cab inspection and
    external light check.
  • Next we check the landing gear which is used to keep the trailer level when not attached to a tractor. We check that Landing gear, cross member & bracing are properly mounted and secure, not damaged
    or bent, and all bolts are present and not loose. The Foot of the landing gear we also check for damage and are properly mounted and secure.
  • While looking under the trailer we need to inspect that all cross members are present, not loose, cracked, or bent.
  • Mention if this is a sliding or fixed tandem & that the frame is not damaged, bent, and is mounted properly. The locking pin is in locked position, and my handle is in locked position
  • We are going to start with the Springs, Airbags, & Shocks. We check for missing, shifted, broken, and cracked leaf springs. Then check for broken or distorted coil springs. Next we check the air ride
    suspension for damage & leaks by checking the shock absorbers and air bags are secure, not damaged, & are not leaking. Then check the Torque Arm/Spring/shock/ & Air bag Mounts are in place in place,
    no cracked or Broken hangers, no missing or damaged bushings, the air bag mounts/bolts are in place and not Missing. Lastly check the U-Bolts for broken, missing/loose Bolts.
  • If vehicle is otherwise equipped with Torsion Bars, torque arms, etc. Verify not damaged and are mounted securely.
  • Moving on to the brake system we have the Brake Hoses or Lines. We check the hoses or lines that can supply air or hydraulic fluid to brakes. We do this by making sure there are no frayed, cracked, or
    worn hoses. All couplings are secured & not leaking. If electric brakes, verify electric lines are not worn or cracked.
  • Next is the Brake Chamber. For more information on how the air brake system works check out our video on air brakes. We inspect the brake chamber for any cracks, dents, that it is mounted securely,
    and there are no audible air leaks. Also check there is no loose or missing clamps.
  • Behind the brake chamber is the Slack Adjuster & Push Rod. Check that it is mounted securely, is not bent, broken, loose or missing any parts. If brakes are released and the slack adjuster is pulled by
    hand, the push rod should not move more than 1”.
  • From there is the Drum & Linings or Rotors & Pad. We need to check the drums or rotors for cracks, dents or holes, and for any missing bolts. Then check the Brake linings or disk pads are not worn
    dangerously thin. Finally we check brake drums & linings for contaminants like grease and oil.
  • Onto the wheel, we start with the rim. We check both the inside and outside of the rim for any damages. Make sure it is not bent, has no welding repairs, and no rust trails that would indicate the rim is
    loose on the wheel.
  • Next is the tire. We check the condition of all sidewalls and tread is evenly worn, no cuts or damage to tread or sidewall, no illegal patches, and valve caps & stem are not missing or damaged. Tread depth
    no less than 2/32 on the rear tires, and proper inflation by checking with an air gauge. Make sure to point to all sidewalls and all tops of tread. Make sure to check that there is proper space between the 2
    tires. No debris stuck between them, the rims bud up together with ZERO space.
  • While here we check the Lug Nuts. How we inspect these is to make sure they are all present, not loose (and signs of this is rust around lug nuts), and no cracks from lug nuts or distortion of bolt holes.
  • Finally we check the Hub Oil or Axle Seal. We need to verify it is not leaking.
    *If sight glass is present, Indicate that the oil level is adequate. If it is sealed just verify there are no leaks.
  • If there is more than one axel, then we will say we inspect that axel the same way we inspected this axel.
  • Behind the rear axle we check the Splash Guards are not damaged & mounted securely.

Now we move onto the rear of the trailer: Pre-Trip Inspection

  • First we start with all the Lights & Reflectors. We check that reflector tape Is present & affixed securely, clearance lights & reflectors are clean, not broken, & are proper color. Rear running lights (tail) are
    clean, not broken, and red of color.
  • Finally we check the Doors, Ties, & Lift. We check that Doors & hinges are not Damaged, they open, close and Latch properly. Ties, straps, chains & binders are secure. If equip w/cargo lift Look for leaking,
    damaged, or missing parts & explain how it should be checked for correct operation. Lift must be fully retracted and latched securely.

Tips when performing a pre-trip inspection:

Metal Parts: Can not be broken or cracked and must be securely mounted.
Rubber Parts: no abrasions, bulges, or cuts.
Parts that hold a Fluid or Air: Can not be leaking.

The Pre-Trip Inspection is a verbal test.
Say at least 2 things about every item you inspect.
Point to, or touch, every item that you inspect.
Mention all damaged items to the tester.

The pre-trip inspection test is performed in sections. Form A is the front of the tractor, engine compartment, and coupling. Form B is the side of tractor, rear of tractor, and coupling. Form C is coupling, and the entire trailer. However, a full form may be required, and that cover the entire tractor and trailer. Some states will randomly pick which form of the pre-trip inspection you get, and some will require the entire full form.

This video is for demonstration purposes only. CDL School Inc makes no claim that the techniques, nomenclature or methodology of conducting a Pre-Trip inspection will work in your specific state. All state requirements are different.